So after 4 months travelling on my own, I'm going to meet Dave at the airport this morning! Can't quite believe it but I'm looking forward to the next two weeks. We're going kayaking and hiking and maybe climbing and white water rafting too!
I'll be out of wifi range for a week as we're heading to a provincial park up the coast called Desolation Sound. Can't wait to be on the water and off the highway.
Last night I went to Tim Hortons to talk to Dave and felt suddenly unwell just before we were about to skype. My face was too hot, hands too cold and my stomach in some serious knots. Oh god, I think I have food poisoning.
I went back to Caleb and Martha's house and straight to bed, awaiting the inevitable d&v session but I fell asleep and it never came. In the morning, I was almost back to normal! Strange.
Caleb prepared breakfast, then we had a short bible study before we ate it and I waved my goodbyes just after 10am.
It was an absolutely gorgeous ride along the valley, huge forest-cloaked mountains erupting all around. It was mostly flat except for a thankfully short but totally ridiculous 11% hill! I enjoyed riding today and stopped for local raspberries and hazelnuts on the way.
I got into Mission around 5pm and went to the leisure centre for a shower before hanging out at a cafe until my warmshowers host Dan was free. We chatted and had a beer and his housemate Greg joined us and his brother for a bit and we talked about explorers and environmentalists and global issues, which are some of my favourite topics, so I didn't go to bed until midnight, and Dan wished me a happy birthday. 26... I wonder what you will bring!
It was cold this morning but the sun felt warm on my skin as I assembled the rig. I set off in my jacket but a few kilometres of uphill warmed me up.
There were roadworks going on and the traffic had to squeeze past me on the narrow piece of road left, despite the closed off section being void of roadworks and road workers. I got to the top, put my jacket back on and started going down. I pedalled my way down at 30-50kmh, glad of the nice hard shoulder on that section. It was more tiring than I expected rocketing downhill for so long. I was cold and the wind was working away at my eardrums again. I stopped a bit along the way to take pictures and admire wildlife - a vulture and a few white tailed deer.
Then I saw an uphill ahead and stopped to take my jacket off again. The hard shoulder disappeared, right when I really needed it. I checked my mirror obsessively and kept having to ride the gravel verge to avoid being minced by trucks and RVs.
Up and down I went for a few hours, getting pissed off with the crappy road surface and high volume of traffic. I stopped at the side of the road for a sandwich and carried on, not feeling much better for having stopped. Uphill, into the stupid eternal headwind! Then I saw a sign for a cafe but it turned out to be a little shop that had a coffee machine and I had a grumpy chat with the girl working there. I didn't want to go uphill any more, or have the wind roaring in my ears, or have to deal with the noisy scary traffic. She was all chipper "At least it's all downhill from here!" No it bloody isn't.
A few long, noisy kilometres later and it was all downhill from there and I'm sorry to say that I didn't make the most of the decent. I'd had enough and was glad to be in Hope.
Tonight I'm staying with Caleb and Martha, friends of my great Aunt. They're looking after me well and I'm glad to have a bed to rest my achy body on.
I wish I was enjoying the last few days more but I'm so tired of riding. Should have had a rest day in Osoyoos I think! Ah well, Vancouver here I come, just two days to go.
I woke up with achy muscles and little desire to tackle the mountain that lay in wait: 70km of mostly uphill. Oh god.
But then I had a lovely skype chat with Dave, found a brilliant cafe and stocked up on breakfast and lunch and I felt like I might just be able to make it.
The initial ascent was steep, then I had a glorious undulating section before another crazy ascent. As is often the case along steep, winding sections of road, they hadn't bothered to put in a hard shoulder. So I hugged the white line as best I could (although it's pretty much impossible to ride in a straight line at 6kmh) and hoped all the drivers were paying attention. Traffic aside, it was a lovely ride; the river was amazing, sometimes meandering or braided with huge dead trees deposited on shale during flood, sometimes roaring through narrow gorges. And the ridiculous uphill was much easier psychologically than slowly riding along the almost flat into the wind. It was ridiculously steep! Around one hairpin, I would gain 50m!
I met a kiwi couple on their way down and we had a chat about routes and travel plans. They're planning to take the Kettle Valley Rail Trail on their mountain bikes. Should be very pretty but rather them than me on the rough stuff!
I got to the summit of the day (although there's a higher one tomorrow) and stopped for a sandwich and a chat with Walter the biker. Then I flew downhill at 50kmh for ages! Traffic slowly moving past me and beautiful views glimpsed then gone.
A few more ups and downs took me to East Gate and I had a muffin and another chat. I always get good reactions now.
"So where are you riding from?"
"New Brunswick."
"Oh my goodness!"
And I can't help a smug little grin - I can't believe I rode all that way either!
Then I rode the last section to Manning Park Lodge - 15km of false downhill with a headwind, no shoulder and four lanes of traffic. It seemed to go on for ever! All day the traffic came in waves. I'd have the road to myself for a minute, then be subjected to a great long train of traffic, too close and too fast and too noisy. On this section it was worst because the speed limit was now 100kmh and the overtaking lane was getting a lot of use, so the vehicles right next to me couldn't move over. But when each traffic train had passed, I enjoyed views of the river and forested hills.
At Manning Park, I checked into the hostel and bumped into a parks worker on my way to it. We talked a bit and he asked if I wanted a job there! I'd love one, but I'm not on a work visa... maybe next year. It would be great to spend a year here, hiking and kayaking all summer, skiing and snowshoeing all winter. There are hummingbirds outside my window! What a cool place.
I went to bed early and got up late. After a trip to the breakfast diner, supermarket and fruit stand, I was leaving town around 9.30.
It was calm on the high steeet - I thought maybe the wind had died down and I'd have an easier ride today. Then I rode out of town and heard the metal sign at the top of the first rise creaking on its metal hinge and realised that wouldn't be the case.
Every kilometre was hard work today and I didn't think I'd manage 10, let alone 70. The little hills rolled up and down, the wind pushing against me, the lactic acid burning in my thighs. At least it was overcast. Happy clouds.
I rode an immensely slow 35km along the highway to Doug's meat shop that Mitch said I should go to. There was a huge queue but it was worth it! I've never tasted delicious jerky until today. Hmm.
Then I took a side road also recommended by Mitch. I knew it would be hillier but it was great to get off the highway. It was a beautiful road along the river. But I had to stop on most of the hills to rest my legs and wonder what's wrong with them today. I was looking for a suitable lunch stop for a while, my legs and stomach getting more and more desperate for a break when I noticed a stretch of river with nice sitting rocks and somewhere to rest my bike, so I pulled over. I got out my food and walked to the rocks, ahh a seat with a view! No sooner had my bum touched the rock when it started to rain. Screw you, weather. I packed up and carried on. Sorry legs!
When it met with the highway just out of town, I avoided a big junction by taking a paved path marked Trans Canada Trail - been a while since I saw one of those! It took me over a lovely old railway bridge into Princeton and I was finally done for the day, 8 hours after setting off. Ugh.
I could do with a day off but I'm nearly there! When did I last have a day off? Saskatchewan?
Last night we talked over delicious pasta dinner and homemade coconut cream pie before bed. I stayed in the most comfortable bed in the entire world and slept in past 5.30 for the first time in a while.
We had breakfast and chatted some more and Gay didn't leave for work until 10am so I mooched and we talked and I caught up on a few things. No wonder Lucy didn't set off early yesterday, the house is too beautiful and inviting!
Thankfully it was a bit cloudy today and the temperature didn't get into the 30s until the afternoon. I only had 50km to ride today - and no crazy massive mountain - so I felt pretty relaxed about the day ahead. Silly me.
It took me two hours to ride the first 12km. The hill was so steep and I wasn't ready for it to go on for so long! I kept stopping by the road to drink water and eat snacks. My legs were tired for the first time in ages. When I finally got to ride downhill, I then had to go back up again. And down and up, and repeat. The wind was blowing fiercely and I probably don't have to bother telling you by now that it wasn't blowing in a favourable direction for me. I did go past an interesting little lake filled with so much salt and minerals that it looked crusty white and has been used by Indians as a medicine bath for centuries. Could have done with a soak myself.
At 1pm I made it to the swimming spot that Kevin had recommended. It was lovely! I crossed an old railway bridge, parked my bike and had lunch by the water, wading in every now and again to cool off. There were some Indian families there, kids jumping off the bridge, parents keeping watch.
After my picnic, two touring cyclists rode over. The guy was painfully thin with straggly hair and a beard and the girl was chubby with dreads and blackened teeth. They both looked almost homeless in their shabbiness. They were riding around BC, fruit picking on the way.
Two more fruit pickers showed up and parked their lawn chairs on the beach next to me, talking in Quebec french, smoking weed, hauking up phlem and gobbing in the water. Nice. The fruit pickers have a bad reputation for stealing and starting fires and I'm beginning to see why haven't met anyone with anything nice to say about them. Two more of their mates showed up with a music player and I decided to move on.
More up and down into the crazy wind, so hot and dry! It really feels desert-like here. The steep mountains are basically screeslopes with a few trees clinging to them and the valley of orchards is irrigated by river water.
I struggled on at 9km/h down a gentle hill and stopped at a fruit stand to load up on sugar and fluids before the last few kilometres into Keremeos. There were lots of fruit pickers about, almost all shabby-looking, some in a homeless kind of way, some in a hippy sort of way.
In Keremeos I spotted another tourer who didn't look homeless and stopped for a chat. Mitch is actually riding to a fruit picking job though so I guess I shouldn't be so quick to judge. He gave me some tips for tomorrow and set off for the next town whilst I went for Thai food.
The wind is still howling but at least it's keeping me cool! Hope it calms down by the morning though.
After tasty breakfast, Sam and Gunnar waved me off and I set off down the highway in the chill of the morning, the sun just peeking out over the top of the mountain. I rode along the river for a few kilometres trying to warm up my muscles before the mountain. And there it was - a steep hill out of town as always! Granny gear, here I come.
I rode around the first switchback and stopped to admire the views and catch my breath. On the valley side, there were pine trees by the road, and in the valley below the rocky river wound its way through green fields in the shade. The sun was a deep orange orb rising in the haze above the mountains. On the other side of the road was the mountain face I was travelling along, the forest and grasslands filled with singing birds. I looked up and saw the moon just over half full and a heron flying under it in the distance, its dark silhouette moving gracefully in perfect harmony with the pale moon in the clear sky.
Up and up I continued, the sun growing stronger by the minute and the mountain road unshaded, leaving me exposed. Up at 1100m, I passed houses and farms! Unthinkable in the UK, must be something to do with glacial deposits of fertile soil. A few times on the way up, I had to ride downhill for a bit, then regain the hight slowly. I made it to the summit before 9am - but that wasn't the last of the uphill! After a few hundred meters decent, I was climbing again until I made it to the rest stop just 20km out of Osoyoos. It had been getting hot on the last bit of the climb and I was glad it was over by 9.30am.
I stopped for some second breakfast that Sam had packed for me and noticed an email from my warmshowers host in Osoyoos saying that last night they hosted Lucy, who is heading my way today!
I waited for a bit at the top but didn't see her so zoomed off downhill and hoped to catch her on her way up. Zoom, zoom, zoom, still no Lucy. I was more than half way down when I stopped at a fantastic viewpoint and saw her pedalling up - hello! We had a lovely excited chat; she started on Vancouver Island and is heading to Ottawa or further east, depending on timing. It's also her first tour and like me she's having a blast and seems to be taking the mountains in her stride in spite of the heat! Rather her than me taking on that climb in the middle of the day, I'm not sure I'd make it. Eventually we had to part ways and carry on. I think we could have talked all day!
Down, down, down around switchbacks all the way into Osoyoos, stopping at a fruit stand on the way. It was so windy I didn't even need the brakes to stay at 50kmh and travel with the speed of the traffic.
Osoyoos is beautiful! I spent the afternoon at Haynes Point, swimming in the lake and sitting on the beach eating an entire bag of Sam's homemade cookies and a punnet of cherries! When it got too hot, I headed into town to mooch air conditioned shops and cafes and finally get a hair cut before going to meet Kevin and Gay, my warmshowers hosts for the evening.
I woke up at 4.30am. Then I woke up again at 5.30am. Dammit! So by the time I was riding away from the campsite at 6.20, the sun had come up over the mountain top and it was getting warm. Wayne waved me off and I headed out of town then up a steep hill with the sun at my back, sweat dripping off my face.
Then I rounded a corner and was going north in the shade of a mountain, up a slightly less steep hill. Ahhh. I started to power my way up at 12km/h and didn't stop until I got to the top, two hours after setting off. The mountains are different here - there are more rocky outcrops, scree slopes and patches of dry grass so they look brown with scattered trees.
At the summit I stopped at a rest stop and sat at a picnic bench in the woods, looking out for bears as I ate breakfast. Then I zoomed downhill to Greenwood and stopped at the museum. When the copper mine opened here, the mayor sent for cheap Japanese workers. Whole families were taken from their homes in Japan, their belongings sold without their consent to pay for internment they hadn't asked for. Then they lived in tiny rooms and the men worked in the mine. When the mine closed down, they were going to be sent back to Japan! But the town committee opposed the decision because they were friends with the Japanese by then, and they were allowed to stay in Canada. Greenwood is a gorgeous little town with all its original buildings.
The next town had a nice little museum in the old railway station and I stopped for a look around and a chat with the lady on duty. It was getting pretty hot by the time I did the final stretch to Rock Creek. The butterflies were fluttering by, I saw a bald eagle not 20 feet away take flight and a million grasshoppers were getting under my wheels again. But I got to Rock Creek at midday, having ridden 70km, seen two museums and stopped at two cafes, which isn't bad.
I had lunch at a golf club and after a few Skype chats, I payed up and talked to the staff for a bit. Sam asked me where I was staying the night and when I said I didn't know, she offered up her spare room! So we cycled to her beautiful house together and talked the afternoon away whilst she prepared dinner. When her husband Gunnar came home, we all nattered the evening away, ate a delicious chicken tabbouleh dinner with home made bread then went down to the river for an evening swim before pudding of peaches and cream. So now I'm tucked up in a huge soft bed with a full belly, dosed up on good conversation and ready for a good sleep before the big mountain tomorrow.
I've had quite a few late nights and early starts and this morning they caught up with me. Last night I'd put my earplugs in around 11.30 to try and drown out the annoying cackling woman outside the trailer next door then I hadn't heard my alarm go off this morning. So I woke up at 7am, annoyed with myself because it was already hot when I set off at 8am.
It was only 20km to Grand Forks so I figured I'd go there for breakfast and make a plan for the day. I slogged up a steep hill and on the other side I got hit with the wind. So my 20km to breakfast took almost two hours, my head delicate with tiredness, eyelids heavy, ears being assaulted by the traffic noise and my whole body complaning about the heat. There were a few grasshoppers on the hard shoulder as usual, some sunning themselves, others crispy dried roadkill. Jump, jump, crunch, crunch. The last 5km into town, there were tons of grasshoppers! They were bouncing off my feet, landing on my legs - and one in my lap - and my tyres were splatted with grasshopper mush.
I got into Grand Forks tired, hot and hungry so I went for lunch then decided not to go any further today. The town campsite was nice so I pitched up and lay down on the grass but it was too hot to nap.
My neighbour D'arcy Wayne came over for a chat and we ended up mooching around the campsite in the ridiculous heat all day chatting and trying not to burst into flame. It was over 40 degrees today, I'm glad I didn't ride any further!
I cooked up a veggie stew for Wayne and another camper Morgan who looked like he needed a good meal and it turned out pretty tasty.
So not a very productive day but there was no way I was getting up that mountain today! Here's for an early start tomorrow.
After about a week of calm, clear, hot days, I was a bit surprised to wake up to a cloudy, breezy morning. And the wind was coming from the east... I know what that means! Rain. But a nice change from crazily hot anyway.
I didn't get up until 5.30 but was packed and riding to breakfast by 6am. A delicious bagel and fruit smoothie in an independent cafe (I love BC) and back on the road.
The road out of town was very steep but turned into a more gradual uphill after five kilometres or so. The clouds went from white to grey and I heard a gentle rumble of thunder to the north. I was sheltered from the wind so the air was still. The forest was dense and the road was a narrow channel through the dark green trees. I was a bit nervous about going up the mountain, not knowing what the weather would be like, and the traffic was zooming past, trucks and all!
I peered into the forest, thinking about the wonders and horrors that might be hidden in the trees. And I calmed my nerved and settled into a rhythm, peddling my way slowly and peacefully uphill under cool, darkening skies for a few hours before it started to rain. It wasn't too bad at first, just a drizzle. But when it actually started to rain, the road spray was unpleasant and I was worried about how invisible I might be.
Finally I made it to a rest stop at around 1200m elevation. A guy in a camper gave me a friendly wave as I rode into the site and parked under a shelter. As soon as I stopped and took off my soggy waterproof jacket, I was chilly. I stood about eating some banana bread and the camper came over for a chat. Robin invited me into his trailer out of the rain for a cup of tea. It was cosy warm inside, the tea was great and we had a good chat whilst I wondered how long it would rain for and whether I should have got into a strange man's trailer on top of a rainy mountain. I needn't have worried, Robin was a great host and I must have been there almost an hour when the rain eased off and I decided it was time to brave it again.
I was cold back on the road but still had 300m to climb so soon warmed up! The sky was brightening up and by the time I made it to the top, it was nearly sunny, just in time to warm me on the way down. It was windy on the other side of the mountain! Glad I wasn't trying to get up the west side. And glad I wasn't riding down in the rain.
Down and down I went, at 30-60 km/h the whole way, around corners, over a lovely blue bridge over a steep valley that doubled as a wind tunnel, through several kilometres of roadworks and down to another rest stop. I chatted to three young bikers who were trying so hard to be cool. They were riding harleys, smoking cigars, wearing vest tops and talking to me so quietly I could hardly hear them. When they rode past me later, I got miniature salutes rather than the customary toot of the horn. They'd probably just finished school, bless them.
Into Christina Lake, I had a few little hills and it was getting pretty warm so I stopped for lunch before heading to my campsite. Whilst my laundry was on, I talked to a lovely lady who showed me a saskatoon bush and we ate saskatoons (blue berries) and chatted about the area.
A man with a big grey mustache came over to me for a chat.
Mustache: "Was that you riding over that mountain today?"
Me: "It certainly was!" [Hint of pride]
Mustache: "I'm surprised a grizzly bear didn't eat you, little girl." [It's been 3.5 years since someone called me a little girl and frankly I thought those days were behind me.]
Mustache: "So where did you start your ride?"
Me: "The east coast."
Mustache: "All on your own, no boyfriend?"
Me: "He's at home."
Mustache: "Why did he let you come out here all on your own to this wild country?"
Me: "Because I didn't ask for his permission."
End of chat. Thankfully.
Then I went for a massive ice cream and read my book in the shade for hours before making dinner and skyping Dave. He'll be here with me in 10 days, hooray! The only downside is that it might be trickier to put sexist old men in their place when my boyfriend is with me.
Last night I met a group of cyclists at the campground and they invited me for dinner! The food was delicious, they gave me a cold beer and we had nice chats about cycle touring. At the end of the evening, there was madolin playing and we were singing campfire songs, it was lovely.
This morning I got up early to ride up the big hill to get the ferry across Kooteney Lake at 7.10am. It was a nice ferry ride and still cool in the morning. On the road the other side of the lake I was in the dappled shade along another lakeshore heading west again, going up and down short hills, enjoying the lovely views and the morning weather. I rode into Nelson at 9.30, where I planned to have breakfast and continue to Castlegar before it got too hot, but Nelson looked so inviting and I decided to stay the day and ride the second 40km to Castlegar in the evening.
I found a campsite, had a shower and saw the group of cyclists again, as they were staying in Nelson for the night! I left my stuff with their stuff and headed into town for much needed lunch.
In the afternoon I took my bike to a bike shop for a gear tune up and wandered around the lovely little shops in Nelson for a few hours, drinking lemonade and milkshakes in a bid to cool down.
When I went to pick my bike up, they hadn't just tuned up the gears, they'd tightened all the bolts, redone the ratty bar tape, adjusted the brakes and patched up the scraped paintwork with tape. She looked rejuvenated! They only charged me $11 and sent me on my way with an off-highway route recommendation and well wishes. Amazing!
I sat by the lake in the shade reading my book until 6pm, when it was just starting to cool down a little. Then I headed out of town uphill in the low sun, sweating in granny gear. I found the turnoff to the recommended route and started climbing up the side of the mountain on the side road. It was like riding in a greenhouse! The smell of lush plants filled the humid air and wafts of sweet pollen swept over me as I rode past wildflowers. It was absolutely beautiful and the higher I got, the better the views. I went from 450m to 500m, 600m, 700m, almost to 800m in 10km of riding. Up and up until I was level with parts of the mountain on the other side of the valley that I'd oggled up at from the bottom.
Then the descent - all the way back to 450m in just a few kilometres of hairpin bends and crazy downhills! By the time I got to the bottom, the sun had just dipped behind the mountain and I was free from the heat for the day. I crossed a wide, raging river and was back on the highway, downhill along a narrower valley with steep rocky sides all the way into Castlegar. It was so nice to ride in the evening, I had such a good day. The campsite here is by the river and I watched the sky turn from blue to pink to dark and skyped Dave whilst the stars came out.
I got up at 5am and was riding by 6am, the early sun giving the mountain tops a golden red tint. Out of town I rode past old wooden churches and headed off the highway onto a side road, paved and smooth with hardly any traffic. I knew it was a risk taking the scenic 'cycle route' suggested by google maps, but I haven't been off the highway since my first day in Manitoba so I was up for it, whatever it was going to throw at me.
The road was on the eastern side of the wide Creston Valley, in the shade of the mountain with a wonderful view of the sun drenched valley and mountains on the other side. I'd even go as far to say that I was a little chilly, but after overheating for days, that was welcome relief.
After going through a small village, the road that went to Duck Lake turned into a dirt track but it was still pretty smooth and I'd come this far... The road surface was variable but not the worst and the views were incredible! The lake was dead calm, reflecting the mountains. Ducks and geese and pelicans were swimming around peacefully. I couldn't go 10 meters without wanting to stop and take a picture!
At the far side of the lake, the road turned to go the length of the lake. The trees and bushes grew right up to the road here and the road surface got rougher and rougher. I suddenly felt a long was from anyone and a bit nervous about whether I could even get out the other side - it didn't look like the type of road that got driven along very often. The grass was long in the middle of the road and the dirt surface was rippled like a supersize rumble strip, which was pretty unpleasant. I hit a patch of soft sand doing 20kmh, front and back wheels skidding in opposite directions but somehow managed to stop without falling off. Keep calm and take your time, I'm sure nobody builds a road that goes almost back to the highway, but not quite...
About a kilometre from the end, I saw something lying in the road and slowed down, ringing my bell. A huge coyote got up and gracefully trotted off the road into the woods.
I could see the highway up ahead - at the top of a small cliff. And my dirt track ended with a turnaround place. There is no way in hell I am riding all the way back, even if I have to carry one bag at a time up that rock face to the highway. Then I spotted an old overgrown track that led me up a steep gravel hill, pushing my bike in a growing cloud of mosquitos. I wondered where they'd all been hiding the last few days! At the top of the slope I was greeted not by the road but a railway. My heart sank. But the other side, slightly off to the left, the overgrown track continued - salvation! By this point there were so many mosquitos that my clothes looked furry and they were flying into my nose, mouth and ears. With mosquito-induced superhuman strength, I lifted my entire bike up and ran across the railway line, up the grassy hill and over a low gate to the highway, riding off down the smooth road swatting at my arms and legs in a frenzy, glad that the ordeal was behind me.
I caught my breath riding downhill then saw two cyclists on recumbent bikes in a pull-in. We chatted until the mozzies started to bite and I realised how hungry I was, 5am being too early for breakfast. The lady gave me a banana bar, which was delicious and allowed me to take on the hilly lakeshore road. Up and down it went in the glorious shadow of the mountain and the dappled shade of the trees. It was a beautiful ride and I enjoyed the short hills, the amazing scenery. On the right there were roadside wildflowers and dense woodland. On the left, a steep wooded slope down to the lake. Beyond the lake, forested mountains with rocky snow-speckled peaks.
I stopped at a house (now tourist attraction) that was hand built using empty glass bottles. It was beautifully crafted, complete with landscaped garden overlooking the lake. After a chat with the proprietor and the recumbent couple who'd caught up with me, I took a recommendation for where to have lunch and carried on up and down, up and down.
By 10.45 I'd ridden 70km and stopped at an art gallery by the lake, my thighs burning. I ended up staying for over an hour, chatting to Geri and her husband in their beautiful house, hungrily chowing down on microwaved leftovers. He used to work on the railways and talked about interesting feats of railway engineering and how many engines it takes to get a 200 carriage train through the Rockies (five engines - three at the front, one in the middle and one at the back).
My plan for the day was to ride to the north end of the lake, get the ferry across and camp on the other side but the village of Crawford Bay was lovely and I got a pitch at the campground there instead, having totalled 80km. A few art galleries later and I'm in a cafe eating bean wraps and drinking delicious ale in the shady garden. Ahhh.
I was packed, breakfasted and on the road by 7.20am and it was a lovely morning, cool and sunny. I rode gradually uphill into the wind at first, painfully slowly! I did see my first owl though, and a deer. Then down for a bit, making up time, then up and down along a lakeshore in the cool shadow of a mountain. The railway went alongside the road and I exchanged waves with the drivers as usual. Thankfully he didn't sound the horn this time, the train was only about 5ft away and I think I may have gone deaf!
I crossed the final time zone of the trip then the road started to flatten out a bit and I got a gentle tailwind! Lots of sections of road looked like they were going downhill, but they were hard work. My altimeter assured me that I was actually going up, but it still looked like down. By the end of the day my knees were sore from trying to go faster on the false downhills, my eyes refusing to believe my legs. I really enjoyed the morning though, it being cool enough to ride a bit harder and take in the views - shimmering lakes, crystal clear rivers, deep green forested mountains, fragrant wildflower meadows and bare rocks showing off their near-vertical seams.
As it got hotter, I stopped more often for cold sugary drinks and to rest in the shade. One rest stop had a river running by it and I put my bare feet in the ice cold water until they went numb.
About 20km out of town, I saw a cyclist coming the other way and stopped to chat in the full heat of the sun. Heather was delightfully enthusiastic and we exchanged stories about our journeys and experiences. She had cycled across the US when she turned 50 and was now near the end of a three week trip around the Rockies, having just turned 60. She came to Canada to escape the Arizona heat! Heather, I think you brought it with you by mistake.
On the outskirts of town, I passed orchards and fruit stands and stopped to eat cherries, peaches and apricots. I ate so many that I fully deserve to feel rather unwell, but no ill effects yet!
Once in Creston, I couldn't face being outdoors at a campsite so checked into a motel and put the air con on full blast to have a nap. Even at 9pm when I went out for dinner, it was uncomfortably hot. Another early start is in order tomorrow, the forecast is for 37 degrees, so I dread to think how hot it will get on the road!
The section of road in the picture below is one of those false downhills - it still looks downhill to me now!
This morning I dragged myself out of bed to wave goodbye to the two Johns at 7am. It was so nice to ride with them (okay, draft behind them) yesterday afternoon. Then I had pancakes with Bettina, Randy and Stuart. Randy is one of two volunteer web developers for warmshowers.org! They are all staying another day in Fernie to go hiking and I was so tempted to join, but I don't want to stress about getting to Vancouver in time to meet Dave, so they waved me off.
It was downhill with a gentle headwind all the way to Elko, where I stopped for a milkshake in the shade - ahh. I found out that it has been 34-38 degrees every day the last week. No wonder I've been complaining about the weather! Riding under the sun on the baking asphalt all day is hard work, regardless of incline.
Out of Elko, the gradual downhill became flatter still and the headwind had me working. Nasty flashbacks to the prairies were short-lived however - I saw a huge bear run across the road just ahead of me! He had a jet black coat, thick and glossy, I couldn't say what type of bear he was, black bears, brown bears and grizzlies can all be black or brown. He was so fast! And he left wet footprints across the road. How nice it would be to go for a swim!
The views were spectacular as always. I was riding in the valley with the mountains towering all around. Some peaks thick with forest, others too steep or their peaks too high for trees to grow. A few times I stopped at the side of the road or at rest stops to take pictures, have some water, fruit and a rest. At one mercilessly shadeless roadside pull-in, I burned my fingers opening the metal bin! Best to keep riding and get the hot breeze going by at least...
I rode the rest of the way into the valley then up the other side in the full heat of the afternoon to Cranbrook, clocking 100km for the day. I had a nap this evening before dinner so hopefully I can actually get that early start tomorrow that I've been hankering after.
The sky was a cloudless star-filled expanse last night, the moon shining bright and the peaks silhouetted against the bright sky. The morning was delightfully chilly as it took the sun longer than usual to rise from behind the mountains. I skyped Mum and Faye and set off to the next town for highly recommended pancakes before starting the ride proper in a cheery mood.
After a few ups and downs and seriously beautiful scenery, I crossed the watershed, the highest point of the road on the crowsnest pass at 1400m, and entered British Columbia! From there it was downhill all the way to Sparwood, 16km with almost no effort. I did notice all the trees growing at an angle and thanked my lucky stars it wasn't windy.
In Sparwood I was at the visitor centre when I spotted two touring bikes. John and John were doing a two week trip together on mountain bikes. We were all heading to Fernie so we set off together, into a crazy headwind! It was still downhill all the way but the wind was strong and now had us struggling to stay above 20kmh.
On the outskirts of Fernie we spotted a brewery! Two delicious beers and a few hours later we were on the road into town and to the hostel, where I planned to meet Bettina. After I parted ways with Simon and Bettina just before Winnipeg, we stayed in touch and now I was going to meet Bettina again but we're going in opposite directions! She has been in the northern rockies and is now heading east then south to the US and Mexico.
It was great to see a familiar face on this trip of one-time friendships! We discussed our journeys since we parted and our plans for what's next. Then two cyclists that the Johns had met before turned up and all six of us went for a delicious Thai dinner then into town to a little live music event. What a brilliant evening! I'm exhausted now and not looking forward to another late night / early start combo, but happy with my experiences the last few days. And the hostel has inclusive pancake breakfast, woohoo!
Today was amazing, I'm finally in the mountains! Good riddance prairies! I had decided to have an easy day and only go 50km, so I left Pincher Creek around 9.30am and rode towards the mountains. As I got closer, they changed from one long silhouette to having individual characteristics - some forested, others rocky - and I could start to see which ones were in the foreground, which ones behind.
I stopped for a break in a small town that actually felt like a small town. It was nice. If I don't see another strip mall on my whole trip, that would be just great. Then back on the highway I saw a cyclist heading east so I stopped for a chat. I never asked his name but found out that he's tried to cross Canada a few times but never made it the whole way, despite having done other long tours. He looked about 100 years old and he said this was his last shot at it. I hope he makes it!
After that, I rode between my first two mountains on the crowsnest pass. They're so beautiful and covered with trees! I didn't even realise I missed this type of landscape, it's like seeing an old friend even though I've never been here before.
There were a few roadside signs and historic sites along the way, so I learned about Limber Pine trees that can grow anywhere by the looks of it, and I learned about the coal mines that brought people to this place looking for their fortunes and finding themselves making a living or dying in the mines. The town of Frank was decimated by a rockslide in 1903 - the bare rocks are strewn either side of the highway and the mountain is left naked on one side. The cause of the slide was a greedy mining method that undermined the mountain. You can only push nature so far before she pushes back!
I rode into my destination for the day around 3pm and had lunch. Blairmore is another nice little town that reminds me a little of villages in the Highlands of Scotland, although there isn't enough granite or tartan.
After pitching my tent and doing my chores I went to explore the town in the hot afternoon sun. I'd hate to say that the weather is too nice, but I'm really struggling with the heat. Every few hours a tiny cloud passes in front of the sun, taunting me with a few blissful seconds of shade before leaving me to sizzle once more. But I know that when the rain comes, it will be cold, so I should enjoy it whilst it lasts.
I'm passing the evening in a bar chatting to the barmaid about life in the mountains.
Last night I met Dave in a pub and ended up being offered a free tent pitch in his garden. I stayed up chatting with him and his wife until it got dark, then I went to bed and skyped my Dave as a thunder storm rolled over town. This morning I got a shower, laundry, delicious breakfast of steak and eggs and a nice cup of tea!
On my way out of town, I took a cycle path through a beautiful river valley full of prairie grass and trees. I soared down into the valley, remembering the trails in Quebec and Ontario with fondness. Then I got into the bottom by the river and the lovely paved trail had been flooded with silty mud that had started to dry out. The crust gave way easily under the weight of my bike and by the time I'd pushed my way through and got back to the road, I had clogged cleats, a lot of new mosquito bites and mud guards filled with silty clay scraping against the tyres. I remember that the highway has its benefits too.
After de-mudding my bike I finally managed to get myself up the steep hill out the other side of the valley. By the time I got to the highway, I'd done 10km, it was midday and I was already sweaty and bug bitten. Only 95km to go...
Then I saw them - the Rocky Mountains. Huge blue peaks on the horizon! It looked like I might reach them today, but I knew that was an illusion. Ahead, a pickup with camper in tow was pulled over, the driver checking something on the vehicle. "Are you alright?" Jody didn't need a hand but we did stop for a chat. He's had an interesting career, having been in a few b-movie horrors, worked a job refuelling planes and now runs his own auto parts business. He's on his way to BC to meet some siblings he never knew he had!
I made it to my half way stop in Fort Macleod and pulled over for wifi at a Tim Hortons. Three girls were there on racing bikes riding from Austin Texas to Alaska! It sounded like a cool trip so we had a bit of chat. I tried to like them, I really did - they were riding for a cancer charity and everything. But they seemed so fake nice and self absorbed and I can't say we hit it off. I wished them luck and they gave me courteous waves as I rode off.
After a late lunch I hauled myself back on the bike, ready for another 50km in the intense afternoon heat. It was stupidly hot, even at 7pm when I finally got to the end of the ride. And the mosquitos were ridiculous. All day I was slapping myself to try and squash the little shits. How are they keeping up with me?! I got distracted a few times and found myself on the rumble strip on in the grass.
The views of the mountains in the distance dominated the landscape all day, calling me to them. I rode up and down the rolling prairies to around 1,100m elevation - and I'm not even in the mountains yet! There were wind turbines everywhere but thankfully all still today.
When I got into Pincher Creek, my legs were exhausted, I was hot and burned and itchy and tired. I almost got myself run over crossing the road without looking properly because in my tiredness I forgot that I've been driving on the right for three months. My back, thighs, arms and arse are totally covered in bites everywhere they could get me. I look diseased! And my right knee is starting to complain.
Still, it's a lovely evening, the waxing moon pale against the pink blue sky, the dark blue mountains looming even from so far away. I can't wait to get up close and personal with the mountains! I should try to get an early night and an early start tomorrow.
I still wasn't in the best mood this morning but once I got on the road, I got back into the rhythm of the ride and cheered up.
I met Les who was riding east, having just retired. I chatted to some bikers in a Tim Hortons and skyped Dave.
The wind wasn't as strong today and I was able to ride 15-20kmh all day. It was still insanely hot though and the sun was trying to blister my already sunburned lips.
I'd ridden a grand total of 4200km when I noticed my back wheel feeling like it was floating. Damn. I pulled over into a dirt road on the outskirts of the town I was approaching, unloaded my bags and turned the bike upside down. The offending article was an industrial staple. That would do it! I've only ever had to change an inner tube once because usually a bloke will pull over and fix it for me when I get a puncture (in spite of my protests, I might add!). And I've never changed one on this bike. But how hard can it be? The mosquitos started to chew on my arms and legs.
I loosened the brake cable to make the quick release accessible, got the wheel off and removed the tyre. The tube wasn't even completely flat as the staple had only just made it through the tyre wall. I checked the tyre for other sharps then went about putting the new tube and the tyre back on, which I did without tyre levers, much to my satisfaction (thanks to Dave for teaching me that). At this point, I heard a car stop behind me and a voice asking if I was alright. I turned around to see a gorgeous young blonde policeman in his cruiser. We talked briefly about my ride and he asked whether I had everything I needed to get back on the road. Yes, it's all fine, thank you. So he moved along.
I put the wheel back on, pumped up the tyre, sorted out the brakes then loaded back up. I was covered in bites by this point and the little buggers drafted along behind me and continued to bite me for the remaining 20km into Lethbridge.
I'm glad that I could confidently sort the flat myself and it added some interest to an otherwise boring prairie ride. Not that I'd want to do it every day! One flat every 4000km is a good frequency.
In Lethbridge I found a sports bar in a dodgy part of town and chatted to a few people whilst having dinner and sorting accommodation for tonight.
I slept well at Doug and Bonnie's house and Doug made me french toast before waving me off with one of Bonnie's home made cookies.
It was even windier today than yesterday and I could only really do 10kmh. I plugged my music into my ears and found myself in a sad mood. I've written quite often about all the amazing, kind and inspirational people I've met, but I haven't really talked about the sad things I've learned on my trip and they're starting to weigh me down.
I guess it's easy for people to talk to me because they're never going to see me again after the minutes or hours that we spend talking, so I'm like a travelling shrink. People unload their baggage onto me and I carry it off into the sunset.
I met a newfie in a hotel bar who cried when he told me he's not in love with his wife. I've met men who have been left by their women, broke and broken hearted. I've met scores of Canadians who live in this amazing country but never go out in it for fear of the bugs and the bears. Fat women have looked at me with a mixture of admiration, envy and hate and told me in a small voice they could never do what I'm doing. Old people have said that they wish they could have travelled around when they were young, but that it's too late now.
I met five people sharing a motel room who collect their benefits cheques on Thursday and drink day and night until the money runs out on Sunday, then they live on the streets until the next cheque is ready. One of the women had her kids taken away from her the week before. I've watched a drunken man beating his fists on a dumpster, heard about people who drink and drive like they don't want to live. I've met guys who say they don't care if they die, and one who did die of a heart attack and wishes he was never revived. I've had blokes tell me that they were beaten as kids or that they sometimes get themselves into fights and into trouble, into prison. This morning outside Safeway I met a wrinkled, cross-eyed man who was in a car accident and is now bored out of his mind on disability benefits with no idea what to do with himself. A man in his 50s is living at the motel where he works 24 hrs a day, 7 days a week, napping when he can. He's worked there a full year with just two days off for a funeral one time. And a middle aged guy from another motel, kind, smart and philosophical, who turns into a drooling drunken fool in the evening, wasting his good brain and his good liver for reasons unknown to me.
All these people with regrets, debts, lost and unrequainted loves, searching for meaning and belonging or finding solace in wine and beer. A younger, cockier me might have offered those people advice, thinking things were black and white and that mistakes are easy to fix. But I just listen, learning that good people can find themselves in bad situations pretty easily.
So here I am, grateful and guilt-ridden for my good fortune in life, in the middle of my big adventure, trying to make sense of the world.
The town I'm staying in tonight isn't helping my mood. I rode 85km to Grassy Lake to find a nice but deserted campground in a town with no pubs and the only restaurant and shop closed. It's a Menninite community and all the women in their long dresses and head cloths gave me funny looks as I rode through town. I'm glad I only arrived with enough time to wash, cook and set up camp by the time the sun was on its way down. But it's been a scorcher of a day so it's a nice evening to sit out and read with just the odd mozzie to bother me, the half moon getting brighter as the sky loses its colour.
This morning we packed up and drove back to the highway where Jason dropped me off. He offered me a ride to Medicine Hat, since he lives there, but I'd had enough of being in the car and declined in favour of a 95km ride into the headwind.
After 5km I was bored and regretting not getting a ride. After 25km I was tired and still regretting not getting a ride. I kept getting angry at the relentless headwind, so noisy and slowing me down, making me work harder. But I think I just needed to get back into the swing of things after a week of crosswinds and the odd car ride, because after lunch, I got back into the groove and started enjoying myself again.
I'd realised not long into the ride that I'd left my water bottles in the truck. Damn. I had to ride 40km to the next stopping point before I could get water and survived the morning on tinned fruit and bananas, which was probably for the best given the lack of available pee stops.
It was slow riding into the wind and mostly it was a battle to stay at 14kmh, regardless of incline. Now that the prairies are slightly hilly, you can quite often see 10km of road ahead of you, so I took to riding with my cap low so that I couldn't see it. Seeing that far ahead depresses me when I know it'll be almost an hour until I get there!
At lunchtime I got to the Alberta border and stopped to make food and chug water in the visitor centre. I can't believe I'm leaving Saskatchewan already, I only just got here!
I rode pretty hard all day and my right knee started twinging again but I made it to Bonnie and Doug's house in Medicine Hat at 5pm after 95km of riding so I was quite pleased with myself considering I didn't set off until 9.30am.
Bonnie made delicious dinner and Doug is handy with bikes so I got my handlebars changed (hooray!) and I oiled my new leather saddle (would have been nice if the guy who sold it to me told me it needed oiling to mould to my bum), so I'm ready to take on the rockies! Brilliant.
I spent today with Jason as my Saskatchewan guide. Jason is a father of five with a kind heart and a dirty laugh, and a tendency to drink and smoke too much. In the morning, we went to his drill rig - it was shut down but all the kit was still there. The site was a giant mud puddle! We jumped from dried mud heap to dried mud heap whilst he showed me what was what, then on the way back to the car I sank almost up to my knees into a not-so-dry mud heap so it was next step laundrette.
In the afternoon, we drove west to Maple Creek then south to Cypress Hills. We could see the hills from 50km away! And as we drove towards the Provincial Park, there were more and more trees until we were in a forest of pine and aspen.
We pitched the tent and drove to a viewpoint and it seemed like we could see for hundreds of miles. We were on a hill looking out onto the prairies, the treeless expanse turning blue in the distance. Then we went for a little hike, walking up hills and riding down scree slopes on our arses - woohoo! By the time we got back to the truck, Jason had made his way through half a crate of beer so I drove his hulk of a vehicle around all evening and we went swimming in the lake and ate ice cream.
So I'm glad I took the day off riding to see a part of the province that isn't beside the highway. It was nice to see a different side to Saskatchewan.
